When mortar was used on some specific joint designs, they developed stress cracks and the nails used to help hold the mix during the installation rusted and allowed the cement to pull away and sometimes fall out. Every year before winter hit, everyone was out “chinking” the home in preparation. When the logs moved, expanded or contracted, the products used to seal could not adjust with the log movement, and other gaps were then exposed. They all lacked in adhesion to the wood as well as flexibility. Roofing tar or oakum would be used as chinking as well.Īll of these compounds were considered a very temporary solution. In the Northeast, log home owners would often soak tree moss in water and drive it into any openings that it could be pounded into. Over time, chinking and caulking can crack, crumble, and fall out, leaving your cabin susceptible to all sorts of problems.Wood slats were once placed in between the logs at an angle then covered with mud or a combination of mortar mixed with horsehair. If your log cabin is more than a few years old, the chances are good that the chinking between the logs has begun to deteriorate. Once it’s completely dry, your log cabin will be better than ever!Ĭhinking is the material used to seal the gaps between the logs and keep out weather and pests. Once all of the gaps are filled, clean up any excess chinking compound with a rag or old towel.Īllow the compound to dry for 24 hours before allowing anyone to enter the cabin. Be careful not to get the chinking compound on your clothing or skin, as it can be difficult to remove once it dries. If you’re working on a tall cabin, you may need to use a ladder to reach the upper logs. Use a spackle knife to smooth it out, then repeat the process until all of the gaps are filled. Starting at one end of the cabin, apply a generous bead of chinking compound to the gap between the logs. Now you’re ready to apply the new chinking compound.Ĭut the tip off of the caulking gun so that the hole is big enough for the chinking compound to fit through, then load the gun with the compound. Once you’ve removed all of the old chinking, use a vacuum cleaner with a hose attachment to suck up any remaining dust and debris. It’s important to be as thorough as possible here, as any old chinking that’s left behind will only cause problems later on.

To remove old chinking, use a wire brush to scrape it away from the logs. However, if the damage is extensive, you’ll need to remove all of the old chinking before you can start fresh. If there are only a few small cracks or gaps, you can probably get away with patching them up without having to remove all of the old chinking. Here’s what you’ll need to re-chink your log cabin:įirst, take a close look at the existing chinking to see how bad the damage is. However, you can always paint or stain over the urethane-based caulking to reduce or eliminate any odor.įortunately, re-chinking a log cabin is a relatively straightforward process that anyone can do.Īll you need is a few tools and some patience, and you’ll have your cabin snug and secure in no time. If that is a concern, then you can use acrylic-based caulking as it has no toxic properties. The downside of urethane-based caulking is the odor created by the toxic elements inside the product.

This is not true of water-based acrylic caulking which will likely cause the paint or stain to simply slide away. When applying, you can use mineral spirits to clean up any mistakes or flaws during the application process.Īnother advantage of urethane-based caulking is that it can be sanded and painted or stained to create a more pleasing appearance. It’s also temperature and pest resistant as well compared to water-based acrylics. Urethane-based caulking products are more weather-resistant thanks to their chemical formula. This will ensure good adhesion and last for quite some time. Just like chinking, you will need to use caulking products that are compatible with the stain of the wood.

Chinking log cabin